The spirit of the Jeffrey Rüdes Fall Winter 2017/2018 collection was inspired by the city of Los Angeles and the dichotomy between the mythical patina of Hollywood and the new creative pulse of the city. The collection references both the rigorous, almost austere look of the early 90’s and the glamorous, yet decadent atmosphere of the Hollywood scene, including a nod to River Phoenix and the work of Bret Easton Ellis.
The collection encompasses influences from minimalism, grunge and the visual culture of the LA mod scene, celebrating the freedom of aesthetic nonconformism. Each and every staple is given strong contemporary relevance: The peacoat, the shearling aviator coat, the workwear parka, the Spencer coat, the leather biker, the three-button suit. These pieces are interpreted in a unique and quirky way, marrying apparently contradictory concepts: innovative design and timeless style, rigour and freedom, opulence and understatement, Californian edge and European savoir-faire.
The same principle applies to the choice of fabrications and materials: robust English Melton wools, tweed and double face cloths are juxtaposed with the more fluid drape of Winter brushed silks and crepe suiting. The relaxed and casual look of waxed shearling next to the impeccable cut of the double face suede officer coat.
Lustrous Japanese wool and cotton satin for sportswear, exclusive moiré for Evening and fine crushed velvet jackets counterbalance the understated elegance of Italian Schappe silk tuxedos, heritage Serge suits, laundered Cupro trench coats, French cord jackets and supple Nappa pieces. The high level of experimentation and innovation, at the core of each Italian made garment, is demonstrated in the couture spirit of each piece: handstitched raised leather piping and rib stitching, carefully canvassed outerwear garments, varnished edge finishings, crocheted knitwear details and beautifully hand painted sweaters and prints.
The simple and pure color palette of the season draws visual inspiration from the changing nuances of the iconic Los Angeles landscape: the sky-like black and midnight blue, the softness of grey from charcoal to pearl, brilliant shades of bronze and peacock blue sit alongside warmer and more intense tones of oxblood red and cocoa brown. Prints and textures also reference the natural aspect of the city, as seen in the iconic “Mojave” printed shirt which is inspired by the flora of the desert-like landscape.
The Jeffrey Rüdes man has a distinct and unmistakable charisma. He is a nonconformist chameleonic character with a unique and youthful sense of style and beauty. He is the movie icon, the performer, the man, the kid, the rock star, the entrepreneur but above all he epitomizes the new American couture way of dressing.
Photo: The Courtesy of Jeffrey Rüdes