In recent time, the fashion industry has become a never-ending conversation of the predictability. The fading of fashion along with seasons as well as the predictable pairing of season and color is probably one of fashion’s saddest clichés. We are now living in an era I like to call, “the era of the obvious.” For those of you new to the industry, welcome to the era of the obvious.
Fashion is losing its voice. Where culture use to be the center of fashion inspired by everyday life, socioeconomic status, etc., It is now losing the ability to cater the needs of individuals in the wider space of society and address new ways that are truly forward-thinking in regards to race, environment, and the consumer. Though it supplies aesthetic answers, we are all guilty of closing the door to emerging new brands that have soul and have stories to tell with their designs. These brands do not want to simply sell clothes; they want to impact the fashion world with their vision. For example, Miuccia Prada empowers women by telling them to dress for themselves and not to please men. Moreover, Fashion is more than just a piece of clothing; it’s an expression of individuality.
Valery Dapiter (Russian Day Company) and Peinan Zhang (Peinan Zhang Trading)
Veronica Sheynina (Buro247), Katia Lavrovskaya (Fashion Collection), Olesya Okuneva (Stylinco Paris)
Spy News Magazine, with its partners Russian Day Company and Peinan Zhang Trading have embarked on a mission to create a platform for emerging brands and to have their stories heard. They took the bold step by organizing Eye on Fashion, an event that have brands from 8 countries in Europe and Asia in one location, with press and buyers all closing deals and networking.
Boscolo Milano Hotel, Eye on Fashion Space
It is our honour and privilege to present to you these amazing designers that participated in Eyes On Fashion.
RASENA – is the Russian young fashion brand, oriented to aesthetic vitality in all aspects of life. The designer Julia Suntseva in her collections offers her vision of femininity, the perception of it in the Art Nouveau traditions, combining comfort and elegance in clothes in a skilfully way.
Julia Suntseva (on the right) with a model
Emphasized decorativeness, attention to details, flawless cut and smooth lines – all this is accented by the designer inspired by the style of a century ago, but successfully implementing it in the present. Staying true to herself and to the creative credo, RasenA brand continues to find inspiration in art.
The brand is eco-conscious and has continued to explore new technologies and methods of processing material. All fabric used are eco-friendly.
KILESA – with headquarters in Caserta. The brands workshop is a real laboratory of design and craftsmanship, where fashion and trendy professional craftsmen and experts working to achieve a single goal: to create unique value, that combine the style and taste of Italian tradition with the latest innovations from around the world.
Kilesa offers women a classic and chic style perfect for the metropolitan female, with an impressive collection of beautiful handmade bags with impeccable attention to details. The luxury high quality leather and detailing materials use provide functionality and a distinct, eye catching look to all her pieces.
Designer Bianca Imbembo (left), Helena de Jesus, Linda Pavlova
TEFFY -Is a new brand of accessories from natural silk based in Milan. Teffy unites art, modernity and quality. The Teffy concept takes inspiration from the new ‘Made in Italy’. It blends authentic high end Italian craftsmanship with international values of trend, style, innovation and visibility.
The brand pays special attention to the quality of accessorizes, using the best materials and most up-to-date Italian fabrics. Each print of the first collection Kaleidoscope has been carefully designed in the brand’s studio in Milan. Italian silk, and then digital printing method was applied to design prints, amazingly bright and juicy.
The culmination of this process was a special post-processing, which makes the material extremely soft and velvety and, moreover, allows it to keep its color for a long time. Designed for modern women’s contemporary lifestyle, Teffy convey youthfulness through innovative luxury materials and techniques.
BALTAZAR CHERÌ (GEORGIA)
BALTAZAR CHERÌ –The designers Baltazar Cherì started in June 2010, when the professional tandem of young designers marked the beginning of a new era in Russian Fashion industry. It was the merger time of the two creators, being inspired by the idea of creating a unique clothing line, where each dress is a piece of art.
Zaven Vardanyan and Timur Tvalavadze
The creative vision is based on the unique appeal of each woman -slim silhouette crossing the line and grace of movement. Unexpected choices of complex and textured materials such as Sicilian lace, cuprite algae, silk chiffon, organza, brocade, cork fabric, fabric of micro sparkles, python skin-gives a colourful solution to the grey of everyday life, possible by the brilliant hands of the designers Zaven Vardanyan and Timur Tvalavadze.
DILDORA KASIMOVA (UZBEKISTAN)
DILDORA KASIMOVA– Is the founder of the same named brand. She always mentions that the only way to figure out the person’s personality is based on his outfit. Clothes show the features of character, mark the nuances of mood, and reflect the traditions.
Dildora Kasimova(on the right) with a model
Each collection of the brand is an elegant reverence to East. Dildora tries to develop the actuality of ancient Uzbek arts. For example, she decorates the pieces of each collection by traditional ways of handicraft and unique techniques of folk art, as golden embroidery, sequins embroidery, and wood curving.
Dildora Kasimova and Marina Demchenko (Fashion Collection)
Dildora Kasimova and Cesare Cunaccia (Vogue Italia)
Designer’s pieces are always feminine and elegant. You may face the rumbles of traditional ikats, tiny lace and luxury decoration in Dildora’s work, as well as traditional golden embroidery and semi-precious stones blotches.
EYELET MILANO (ITALY)
EYELET MILANO– Stemming from the intuition and the creative flair of two idea entrepreneurs, EYELET Milano is an ambitious project that has now reached maturity. It represents the culmination of an idea shared by two professionals whose serendipitous encounter and visionary, almost playful approach, has enabled them to give shape to aspirations, sparks and objectives.
Stefano Collarile with Laura Salsi and Luisa Simonetto (ELLE ITALY)
Like all adventures with a happy ending, fate proved a loyal ally and a source of positive coincidences. Against the backdrop of Milan, the undisputed hub of global fashion, destiny played the fairy godmother in presiding over this birth.
The project was dedicated to offering an artisan-style product of extremely high quality, pocket square and shopping bags proudly crafted in Italy by the finest manufacturing industry in the country and endowed with special meaning thanks to the precious contribution also provided by the world of non-profit organizations.
TASHA MANO (UKRAINE)
TASHA MANO– Is Ukrainian brand created by Natalia Tumanova and Victoria Tumanova 4 years ago. The sisters graduated from Kiev National Design University. They took part in Ukrainian Fashion Week and attended educational course in Academy of Fine Arts in Budapest (Hungarian Royal Academy of Fine Arts).
Natalia Tumanova and Victoria Tumanova
Tasha Mano brand is well known both in Ukraine and abroad. Their fashion products combine Ukrainian and Eastern elements, exotic and practical, futuristic and romantic components. The background of their style is elegant sexuality and accentuated female image. The collections are made using exclusively natural fabrics (silk, linen, and cotton), lace, original accessories and unique decisions.
10COLLECT– Is a company established in 2014 in Shenzhen, China, who aims to develop an international platform for designers’ brand by providing them a vertically integrated supply chains service: material producer – designer – production – sales – service – entertainment.
from left: Nardio Zhong, Ms Yang, Candy Chen and Henry Zheng
The collections they brought to the event “Eye on Fashion” are the collections with Chinese traditional elements showing how Chinese craftsmanship is embraced in modern designs. They think the traditional Chinese craftsmanship shouldn’t left behind and it’s a heritage to be passed by from generation to generation and should also go across the boundary of nations and reach to the whole world.
RAOUL– RaoulSS17 collection is formed by nuances and shapes that echo the beauty of the season. Relaxed and breezy silhouettes are constructed in subtle solid shades of ivory, crystalline blue, pristine pink together with bursts of suntan yellow and fluorescent pink. Refined prints in Micro tulip and Linear floral also enter the picture to add a soft sweetness in the lines.
Soft, tonal, always spirited, we played with form and construction to create a comforting atmosphere centred on the subtleties: Roomy dresses in delicate silks cinched at the waist with matching fabric belts, hems and necklines edged with ladder trim and frills. Trousers vary from long and rangy with large leg volume to sleek slim cuts.
Fabrics ranged to the fancy: Guipure Lace, Brocade Floral Mesh, Embroidered knit, a floral textured jacquard. Washed denim is patched with floral appliqués and paired with delicate ruffles to give it a refresh. Textured fabrics, embroidered appliqué flowers, bows, and joyful embellishments create a three-dimensional effect throughout the collection.
GYUNEL is a UK based label, lead by the creative director Gyunel Rustamova. Gyunel was born in Baku, Azerbaijan and after graduating from the Azerbaijan State Economics University, she moved to the UK to pursue her education in fashion design at the London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins Universities.
Gyunel has been a UK resident for over 10 years and founded her atelier in London, which is based in South Kensington. Before venturing into fashion, Gyunel enjoyed a successful career as an artist, predominantly painting using oil on canvas. In 2010 Gyunel showcased her work at her solo exhibition entitled thirteen at the esteemed Cork Street Gallery in Mayfair, for which she garnered much praise and attention.
Venturing into women swear fashion, each season her collections are conceived at the atelier, where Gyunel starts with a process of painting her inspirations. These are then manipulated and transformed into digital prints from which beautifully crafted garments are constructed. Everything from hand embellishments, and hand-finished detailing are developed with luxury and sophistication in mind.
SVETLANA KUSHNEROVA (KAZAKHSTAN)
As a teenager born in Kazakhstan, Svetlana Kushnerova love to play piano she even created her own composition in addition to playing piano she sewed dresses for her sisters and friends.
Svetlana Kushnerova with Laura Salsi and Luisa Simonetto (ELLE ITALY)
She was forced to go to law school by her father during her high-school education in USA even though she wanted to go to School of Design in other to fulfil her dream of becoming a designer. So it was natural for Svetlana Kushnerova to gravitate towards creating her own fashion brand and yes she did.
Her brand, Svetlana Kushnerova which is bears her name wants to show the beauty and different-sided nature of woman. In all her collections she uses only natural materials. In each of her seasons she loves to use the stones which are handmade beaded in her creations with a sensual note and glamorous style.
YAN RONGCI (CHINA)
Yan Rongci is considered to be without redundant and complicated designs. The brand uses a lot of prints inspired by POP ART. It also uses bright colours to express the indifference, emptiness and alienation in such an advanced commercial civilization. The brand selection of fabric is aim to mix technical fabric with classic fabric in different degrees, in order to inherit and break the boundary of tradition at the same time.
Photo: Anna Minaeva, Yulia Bortsova, Tatiana Volobueva