Blue in Japanese symbolizes the trouble state of the youth. The frustration, incomprehension and rebellion towards its surrounding. Walking on the wild side of experimentation and destruction to express fear in society.
Mixing Eastern and Dadaism aesthetics, designer Masanori Morikawa is playing his own musical score, by dissecting and recomposing silhouettes based on classics staples worked through deconstruction and layering. Classic tailored jackets are worn like kimono wrap over t-shirts and striped pajamas or shirts, trench coats are morphing into tunics and army bombers or denim jackets are skinned to expose their inner layers and bone structures. Japanese traditional summer clothing Jimbei is now made with leather, tartan motifs are printed on sheepskin to pay homage to schoolboy look seen through the Japanese prism of precise craftsmanship and Wabi-Sabi philosophy.
Words are flashing throughout the collection such as « I Don’t Like Drugs but Drugs likes me » or « Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die », with its literal meanings which Morikawa reminds himself of in today’s society.
Playing with double meaning, Nirvana or Heroin logos are embroidered on varsity jackets and college sweaters, a drug theme also surfacing between the lines in the use of a silver foil fabric for a puffer jacket or long scarf collars. The music references playfully echoing in the new amplifier shape bags and headphones jacks details finishing cord belts or shoe laces and tassels on preppy loafers.
Evolving from last season’s show, the Christian Dada women’s collection is presented alongside the mens collection featuring layered looks of deconstructed tartan kilt skirts or cropped sheepskin jackets worn with fleece hoodies and t-shirts printed with illustrations by London designer Charles Anastase.