A country melody – a free and sophisticated ballad – would be perfect for describing the new Trussardi Women’s Collection for Fall/Winter 2016-17. The inspiration is Jolene, one of Dolly Parton’s biggest hits. The song is about a stunningly beautiful woman who is begged by the singer, in a declaration of admiration and sisterhood, to not seduce her man.That sentiment of bewilderment and awareness, caused by the power of feminine beauty, is the primary aesthetic for the entire collection. At the base is an imaginary and never pedantic country mood. It is as if the traces of folk style in the wardrobe have blended with more edgy, glamorous urban looks.
Like a bridge between two worlds, symbols, details and memories establish a delicate dialog between past and present, casual and formal. For starters, boning is used in jackets and outerwear, creating a fitted waist and hourglass silhouette. It also gives jodhpur-style riding pants an unusual guêpière look.
The denim jacket has been completely restyled with reverse shearling inside and corduroy on the outside. Capes and coats have blanket stitch hems and suede-covered buttonholes. Bias-cut dresses traditionally made of silk are instead made of velvet, checked fabric and tartan plaid. Silk with a tie print or floral motif or an all-over print with riding crops and greyhounds is layered and mixed in a new romantic aesthetic that unites jackets, robe-coats, trousers, linings and scarves in the same look.
Dark blue, rust, tan, gray and burgundy are the predominant colors with the abstract hues of a night in the West. Splashes of fire engine red or lilac brighten the palette. Velvet – three-dimensional, wide-gauge corduroy, and textured – is a protagonist. Used for outfits in the most stunning lengths, it creates a strong, soft sense of luxury that is more intimate than showy. Boots reign in accessories: ankle boots or riding boots, with or without heels, are embellished with horns, spurs and fringe.
Messenger bags give crocodile leather a twist with an imaginary patchwork of polychrome leathers assembled as overlapping scales held in place by large hardware elements reminiscent of copper latches on the doors of historical palazzos.The desire is always the same: to give women reassuring garments that are never faddish but iconic, recognizable in time and space. They can always be worn because they were designed as a complement to one’s wardrobe and personality.
More than a simple runway show, it will be a performance. As had occurred for the menswear collection presented at the Pinacoteca of Brera, Creative Director Gaia Trussardi selected and gathered together talented young musicians who will perform live, giving their contemporary version of Elvis Presley.
Photo: The Courtesy of Trussardi